Care & Storage
High-end vintage items need to be handled with care. Their storage is equally important to preserve their heritage and condition. Here are a few examples:
WASHING
Do carry out repairs before washing. If you wash anything that is ripped you can make it worse. Do up zips, hooks, check and empty pockets before washing. Do wash coloured fabrics on the reverse side.
DETERGENTS
ATELIER-MAYER.COM recommends washing with non-biological detergents, as they do not contain enzymes, are more environment friendly and are more suitable for sensitive skin. Use the right amount of detergent, using more than necessary does not make the item cleaner.
In the old days washing soda crystals and household soap were used. Soda breaks down mineral deposits, removes limescale and softens water. Household soap can be worked into stains that have been dampened before adding garments to a machine wash. Mix one part vodka with two parts water - it zaps that grandma smell, pronto!
Cashmere is best washed with baby shampoo. It keeps its softness and is gentle to the fibre. Knitwear should generally be hand washed, folded flat on a towel or placed over the bar of the hanger, not hung from the shoulders. The weight of the fabric pulls the material down, which causes hanger bumps and can stretch out of shape. If you wear a vest or slip you may prolong the wearing time of cashmere. Never wring knitwear!
Cotton and linen tend to darken with age. Sometimes soaking the fabric will restore the original colour, however, do not soak for too long. Never use harsh chemicals such as chlorine bleach, that are bad for your health, fabric as well as for the environment. To add a natural perfume before ironing, you can sprinkle on a few drops of essential oils diluted in water, such as lavender, orange, lemon. Madame Mayer has her linens scented with rose water.
CLOTHING CARE LABELS
Only in 1972 the Federal Trade Commission introduced the Care Labelling Rule, which, for the first time required manufacturers to label their clothing with instructions of a cleaning method. Since then these care symbols replaced the words of how to clean a fabric. While clothing care labels are a good indication, it is useful to know when they can be ignored.
A – Z OF STAINS
Do not leave stained garments sit for days as the stain can set. Always rinse out the stain remover well before the normal wash. Do not rub stains! Rubbing some fabrics, especially delicate ones such as silk, breaks the surface fibres. Sugar-type stains will not be dissolved during ordinary dry-cleaning. Over time this sort of stain will tend to "caramelize" into unsightly brownish marks and streaks. Salt, a natural by-product of wear by contact with the skin, can still remain in the garment after typical dry cleaning and over time salt will damage the fabric of the garment.
Try using tea tree oil as a deodorizer, spot and stain remover for oil based stains in woolens and clothing.
Blood, Diary Products and Egg stains
Soak in cold water with salt. A pre-soak followed by a wash will remove most organic or food stains. Borax can also be used on protein stains before washing.
Chocolate
Remove any excess before washing, freeze the item and then scrape off while it is hard. If necessary, pre-soak and then wash.
Coffee and Tea
Soak in cold water, add some liquid washing detergent into the stain and then launder. If the stain remains, treat it with a borax solution before re-washing.
Fruit
Rinse with cold water, use lemon juice or distilled malt vinegar on the stain, then rinse with warm water. If the mark remains, repeat same procedure.
Grass
Pre-soak fabric or blot the stain with distilled malt vinegar before working detergent into the area. Soaking in glycerin will also remove grass stains from white fabrics.
Grease
Treat make-up, oil, butter and mayonnaise stains with baking powder, which will absorb the stain. Rub the powder over the stain and leave it to sit for half an hour. Remove the excess powder before washing. Tea tree oil helps as well to remove oil based stains.
Ink, Hairspray and Water
Can remove ballpoint ink, but you may be trading one problem for another. That is because hairspray may contain alcohol and oils such as resins and lanolin. The alcohol in the hairspray can cause colour damage especially on silk; likewise, oils and other ingredients could lead to additional stains.
Jewellery
Rub a little toothpaste onto the jewellery, brush it with a soft toothbrush and rinse it off.
Minerals
Rust and other mineral stains are best removed with lemon juice mixed with a tablespoon of salt before washing, repeat if necessary.
Mud
Should be left to dry, then brushed off as far as possible before washing.
Nail Varnish, Paint and Glue
Treat separately before washing with a solvent such as nail polish remover.
Pollen
Use Sellotape to lift pollen from the fabric before washing.
Red wine
Soak as quickly as possible, sprinkle with salt before rinsing with cold water or soda water, which should flush most of the stain away before washing.
Sweat
Most people do not realize that prolonged contact with deodorants and antiperspirants may cause permanent damage. Combined with the effects of perspiration, the damage can be extensive. The most frequent damage comes from overuse of these products, or infrequent cleanings. This leads to the buildup of a stiff, caked-up residue or to fabric damage.
To prevent chemical damage, do not overuse the product and allow it to dry before dressing. Wear dress shields with silk garments.
To remove the residue on washable garments, wash as soon as possible after wear in the hottest water safe for the fabric. Soaking in water with two tablespoons of white vinegar or lemon juice may be necessary. Try using tea tree oil as a deodorizer, spot and stain remover for oil based stains.
Tomato Sauce and Ketchup
Remove excess before rinsing in cold water, a pre-soak may be necessary.
Wax
Gently scrape away any excess then lay the fabric over an old cover with a piece of plain paper. Press down on the paper with a warm iron and the wax will gradually be absorbed. Repeat with clean paper until all of the wax is gone before washing.
DRY CLEANING
Professional dry-cleaning generally removes stains as well as smell. Professional dry-cleaning can however, cause a change in appearance, damage the fabric, mellow the colour and with heritage pieces and remove the patina on metal fibres. Dry-cleaning should be avoided with delicate fabrics if possible, as it can cause thinning and holes in the fabric. If at all necessary, spot clean the garment only to remove the actual stain. Do take stained clothes to the dry cleaner promptly as stains will be easier to remove. Stick to the same cleaning process. If you dry-clean once, then continue to do so as this will help to stabilize the dyes.
Ironing: Make sure your metal plate of the iron is clean and use preferably an aluminium foil lined ironing board cover to reflect the heat. Do not overdry cotton and linen, both fabrics can be ironed and pressed. A good iron will not only apply heat, but also good pressure. In the old days they used actual irons made of iron, hand heated by coles. Crepe, velvet, and silk should not be ironed, as it will leave marks. Do air freshly ironed items on hangers or a close horse before storing away in case they are still slightly damp.
Steaming: Steaming is the best method of removing wrinkles and it least damages the fabrics. You can steam also delicate fabrics such as silks, velvets, crepe and cashmere. If you do not have a steamer, you simply can hang it in a hot shower, it has the same effect. However, it is less environment friendly due to the large quantity of hot water used.
Buttons and Hooks: If buttons are missing, sew on the appropriate matching period buttons and replace missing hooks.
Beading: Haute couture gowns and dresses often have lost some beading. Find and replace them with appropriate antique beads. If necessary, shoulders should be backed for support, because the weight of the beads can destroy the delicate fabric (example, beaded dresses from the 1920). It is important that you find out what type of beads they are, as some can melt in the dry cleaning process. You should also check if the beads have been glued or sewed on, if they have been glued, the glue might melt away
The Lining: An important vintage collectors item may have more value with an original lining, even though it is not in good condition. A damaged or shredded lining should be replaced in most cases, since often the original lining was of a plain solid colour and was not meant to be seen. It is important however, to maintain the historic consistency. The original lining should be replaced with the same fabric (linen with linen, silk with silk etc).
Stitching and Re-tacking: Replace loose seam or hem or surface stitching. All repairs should be done by hand with appropriate thread, even though the original dress may have been made with a sewing machine. Historic clothing must be treated with gentle care.
Lace: Restore antique lace, using very fine lacemaker's thread.
STORAGE OF VINTAGE ITEMS
Pack the garments carefully and not just for appearance. Proper packing protects the original condition of the item.CLOTHES
Only store clean items, as insects are attracted to soiled garments, particularly to food and drink stains. Dirty condition only gets worse with age.
Historic garments require special consideration for their safe storage. Hanging may be appropriate for pieces in good condition, however fragile garments should be stored in flat customized boxes or in drawers of dust-tight cabinets.
Hanging garments vertically stress the upper body sections, such as the bodice, shoulders and neck. Appropriate storage should minimize distortion to the fabric and reduce tension on the seams.
Special padded hangers are best to retain the shape a cut of the garment. It is best to have a variety of sizes and types of wooden hangers on hand to suit the individual garment.
If you store your vintage items in bags, make sure you do not keep clothes in the dry cleaner's plastic covers as fabrics need to breathe. They should be stored in cotton garment bags.
Knitwear is best to be stored in acid free tissue with cedar wood blocks or lavender in boxes.
Moth balls have such a horrible smell, alternatives to save wool and cashmere: fill sachets with dried lavender, or dip cotton balls in lavender oil. Then, place in closets, drawers and any other places where clothes are stored.
Dried mint leaves are another effective moth repellent. Place several leaves in a sachet, or place loose leaves among your clothes.
SHOES
Leather is skin and skin needs care. Dust is the biggest culprit for drying out skins, so store them in a dust bag or pillowcase.
Always store your shoes in a box of card for ventilation and absorption, if possible in individual dust bags.
Never wear a pair of shoes for two consecutive days, they need at least 48 hours to recover.
Always keep shoetrees or filler cushions in your shoes when not in use.
Should your shoes become soaked, stuff them with scrunched newspaper and allow to dry naturally, away from direct heat or sun.
Buy the best quality creams you can find, do not use off the shelf instant shine products and match the colour of the shoes as closely as possible. Should you wish to add some patina to your shoes you may use a darker shade than the leather. Madame Mayer uses champagne for a champagne brushed effect.
Polish your shoes regularly and always follow the instructions of the cream manufacturer.
Use a cloth to apply the polish, a soft brush for polishing and for buffing old nylon tights can help.
Suede should be cleaned with a suitable bristle brush or, in case of deeply embedded dirt, an abrasive pad.
Should your shoes need repair then try and find the most respected craftsmen for the job, especially in case of an irreplaceable pair of vintage shoes.
HANDBAGS
Stuff bags with bubble wrap or material to maintain shape and avoid creases.
For handbags and leather luggage always use untinted creams as coloured ones may rub off and stain your clothing.
Again, store your handbags in cloth dustbags, away from heat and direct sun.
FUR
Fur behaves differently to usual fabrics when dry-cleaned. So use only an expert dry cleaner. The most common furs are fox, mink, Persian lamb, rabbit, leopard, zibeline, ocelot.
Put furs in cold storage for the warm months, as excessive heat leads to moulting. Ideally store them temperature regulated cupboards.
Use a fur brush to remove trapped dust and maintain a smooth coat.
EXOTIC SKIN
Exotic skins are rare because they are hard to come by, particularly if an entire piece is made from one skin – this keeps their value.
Lizard, python, and other snakeskin, stingray, alligator and crocodile, ostrich, shark leather, eel skin, buffalo leather, peccary skin, fish skins, Zebra, Pony and Tilapia leather fall under the category of exotic skins.
Clean ostrich with talcum powder, wiping the oily spots and cleaning with a dry cloth.
Clean vintage exotic skins with a specific cleaner (Bick-4 for example) or use a clean damp cloth and condition with a fine layer of beeswax.
Never leave exotic accessories in direct sunlight; it will affect their condition and colour.
New technology debates also to inject botox into exotic skins to refrain them from ageing. Madame Mayer has yet to try this out!
JEWELLERY
Always keep all your jewellery separately. It can be in the same box, but all has to be kept in an individual pouch for them to stay looking good for longer. A piece of white chalk in a jewellery box helps absorb moisture and prevent tarnishing. Do not waste your money on expensive jewellry cleaners. Always apply lotion, perfume and hairspray before putting on jewellery.
Gold and Silver jewellery can be cleaned with a solution of mild soap and water, polish with a soft cloth or a "sunshine cloth". There are special polishing cloths impregnated with silver polish that may be used on silver jewellery; you can also use a small amount of regular silver polish cream or liquid, and rinse well. You can clean silver jewellery also with toothpaste on an old soft toothbrush.
The best way to clean vintage costume jewellery is with a baby's toothbrush and toothpaste. Rinse under warm water, and pat dry gently with a soft towel. Store in dry baby wipes, it keeps synthetic stones and costume pieces clean.
Never put vintage rhinestones into water or chemical dips. Moisture will damage the foil backing, dulling the stones, and can also cause any type of glued-in stone to loosen. It is safer to put a tiny bit of glass cleaner or sudsy water on a soft cloth and gently wipe the jewellry (if simply dusting it does not work). Then dry it very quickly with a hair dye set on cool.
Clean your diamond jewellery by putting them in neat washing up liquid then using boiled water and a soft toothbrush to get around the diamond settings. Madame Mayer uses vodka to clean her diamonds - it works wonders!
