Thoughts
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Azzedine Alaïa in the 21st Century exhibition
Fashion is developing a frightening propensity to become disposable and there are few designers that are confident enough to take a stand against this. Azzedine Alaïa, one of the most admired contemporary designers, is the exception. Alaïa is the genuine maître of haute couture. His name is synonymous with luxury and his clothes embody glamour and sensuality. The materials are original and the structure of his pieces is borne of a rare understanding of the human body. Alaïa’s first official foray into creativity was his training in sculpture in École des Beaux-Arts in Tunisia and his clothes, particularly his body-con pieces, bear the touch of a man that knows well how to flatter the curves and grooves of the female physique.
An Alaïa collection is utterly unique. The clothes challenge preconceptions of material and the human body. They wear like a second skin, a secret armour. Each of his pieces is handmade and there is always a fitting model in residence so that he can accurately see the fall and movement of his creations. There is only one collection each season, which means he has time to let his creative inspiration evolve at a more natural pace. He refuses to ‘sacrifice creativity’ by working to the ‘static rythhmn’ of other design houses.
This is why Alaïa is a cult name and a living legend. He is one of the true architects of couture. His highly revered position has afforded him to comment candidly on fashion culture today. In a rare interview with 032C, Alaïa took a stand by criticising the terrifying pace of the fashion world: “Four collections for women, four collections for men, another four collections to sell, and everything needs do be done within four-five months — it’s a one-way course towards emptiness. It’s inhuman.” Although he refrains from commenting on the quality of the work, the implication is there. “Creativity should be the only concern. But today there is no time for creativity; nobody has time to develop a special silhouette or a special fabric”. Citing Nicolas Ghesquière at Balenciaga and Alber Elbaz at Lanvin as the exception, it is clear that he is mourns a time when fashion was less ‘industrial’, when designers had time to nourish their creative instincts and skills.
It is therefore apt that the Groninger Museum is housing an exhibition of the most celebrated garments of one of the last major couturiers still active. Alaïa does not enjoy the status of independent genius for nothing. His clothes are works of art and deserve to be celebrated as such. From flounces of fur and feathers to basques of crocodile leather, each piece can be savored for its tactility. The originality and of the design and the craft behind the pieces will mean that they will always be relevant and precious. How lucky that Atelier-Mayer had the prescience to track down some vintage Alaïa for your perusal, just in case you don’t think that you can make it to the Groninger in time!
Azzedine Alaïa in the 21st Century is showing in the Groninger Museum from 11 December 2011 to 6 May 2012.
Museumeiland 1 9711 ME Groningen The Netherlands
http://www.groningermuseum.nl/en/exhibition/azzedine-alaï-21st-century
Read his interview with 032C for ‘The Business of Fashion’.
An Alaïa collection is utterly unique. The clothes challenge preconceptions of material and the human body. They wear like a second skin, a secret armour. Each of his pieces is handmade and there is always a fitting model in residence so that he can accurately see the fall and movement of his creations. There is only one collection each season, which means he has time to let his creative inspiration evolve at a more natural pace. He refuses to ‘sacrifice creativity’ by working to the ‘static rythhmn’ of other design houses.
This is why Alaïa is a cult name and a living legend. He is one of the true architects of couture. His highly revered position has afforded him to comment candidly on fashion culture today. In a rare interview with 032C, Alaïa took a stand by criticising the terrifying pace of the fashion world: “Four collections for women, four collections for men, another four collections to sell, and everything needs do be done within four-five months — it’s a one-way course towards emptiness. It’s inhuman.” Although he refrains from commenting on the quality of the work, the implication is there. “Creativity should be the only concern. But today there is no time for creativity; nobody has time to develop a special silhouette or a special fabric”. Citing Nicolas Ghesquière at Balenciaga and Alber Elbaz at Lanvin as the exception, it is clear that he is mourns a time when fashion was less ‘industrial’, when designers had time to nourish their creative instincts and skills.
It is therefore apt that the Groninger Museum is housing an exhibition of the most celebrated garments of one of the last major couturiers still active. Alaïa does not enjoy the status of independent genius for nothing. His clothes are works of art and deserve to be celebrated as such. From flounces of fur and feathers to basques of crocodile leather, each piece can be savored for its tactility. The originality and of the design and the craft behind the pieces will mean that they will always be relevant and precious. How lucky that Atelier-Mayer had the prescience to track down some vintage Alaïa for your perusal, just in case you don’t think that you can make it to the Groninger in time!
Azzedine Alaïa in the 21st Century is showing in the Groninger Museum from 11 December 2011 to 6 May 2012.
Museumeiland 1 9711 ME Groningen The Netherlands
http://www.groningermuseum.nl/en/exhibition/azzedine-alaï-21st-century
Read his interview with 032C for ‘The Business of Fashion’.
